Aussies' Adventures Along The Northwest Inside Passage

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Part 5: From Crease Island To Port McNeill

By David & Irene Axup

Editor's Note: Northwest Boat Travel Club members and designers of the NBT Club burgee, David & Irene Axup, of Melbourne, Australia, have spent over two years carefully planning for "an adventure of a lifetime". Several articles were published in our club magazine, describing their preparations. Now they are here - on our lovely waters, sailing northwestward on their adventure of the next four months. We asked them to share their cruise with our members and with us.

We are having the time of our lives and just wandering with the wind and the tide. The Crease Island anchorage is such a lovely spot we have propped here for 3 days. The decision to stay here was a good one as Arie De Kleer who designed and built Skyamsen came in to anchor and came over and introduced himself. It is in the log. Have caught up with Linda and Jack again.

16th JULY - Monday

A light breeze is blowing straight up the Harbour when we wake and the boat has not moved.

1015 Up anchor and motor slowly out of the Harbour the way we came in keeping a watchful eye out as the tide is up and the reefs not visible.

WHALES - two Orca cross our bows as we nose out of the harbour and all David can do is back off a little as there is a current running against us and we have reefs either side. They cross again and Irene is excited. They are obviously fishing as they keep crossing the entrance to the harbour.

There are small fishing boats everywhere and a large Canadian Coast Guard cutter is sitting still in the water about 200 metres away. There are birds everywhere obviously feeding.

We turn down Blackfish Sound and into Blackney Passage with the flood tide but no more Orca to be seen. There is considerable turbulence between Licka Point and Parson Island and it is not hard to imagine that given a high wind and a contrary tide the overfalls marked on the chart would be quite severe.

What is it about Johnstone Strait? As soon as you enter the temperature drops several degrees.

David sets a course diagonally across the Strait towards Ella Point on Vancouver Island and we keep a watch out for whales again.

We call up Telegraph Cove Marina on Ch73 and inform them that we are close by and could they allocate us a berth.

Nosing ever so slowly into Telegraph Cove we realize how small it is when you get in past the fuel dock. Max, the Marina manager, is waving from the dock and indicating that we should keep the new pontoons to Port and go right in near the brand new float house at the end of the Cove.

David swings SKYAMSEN's nose around hard to port and we ease gently up to the dock and toss Max the bow and stern lines. 1245 Alongside.

We can see why people recommended coming to see Telegraph Cove. The houses and buildings on the board walk perched above the south side of the cove are quaint and in front of each there is an explanation of the purpose it served when the place was an active timber operation.

Late lunch in the pub. Fresh Halibut and home made chips.

No sooner had we got back than Max's wife appeared and asked if we would really mind if we moved out onto the finger at the end of where we were. They had a request for a berth from a 58' motor launch.

Why not? We are glad to oblige and move along to the end of the dock and out onto the finger with our bow pointing straight out into the fairway and make fast again.

The boat coming in was huge and barely fitted up the fairway at the narrowest point. The skipper was standing out on the rear deck with a small black box on a lead and manoeuvred her in from there with the aid of bow thrusters - he made it look easy and it really was quite a good demonstration of boat handling. Its name? Swede Dreams. We didn't ask why.

We moved SKYAMSEN out a little further on the finger to allow him to come astern to hook into the shore power and got talking to the skipper. A little later he appeared with a large cut of freshly caught and filleted King Salmon for us.

The night is balmy and we sit out on deck talking to Alan and Barbara Day off CUSAO II. They invite us for breakfast in the morning.

17th JULY - Tuesday

0800 The alarm goes off and we scramble [joke] out of the bunk to shower and dress for breakfast on CUSAO II.

French toast and ham - big chunks carved off a big cured ham - with fruit juice and coffee. Great. Not a normal Aussie breakfast and that added to the good food and company to make it a really pleasurable experience.

CUSAO II is relatively small but extremely well laid out inside and very comfortable. Like most small craft around here she is fitted with radar. The name? It got the better of Irene and she asked Alan. The explanation - it is an acronym for Cleaned Up, Squared Away, Organized - clever.

After taking a few more photographs of this fascinating little harbour we let the lines go and motor slowly out into Johnstone Strait and turn the nose Eastwards towards Robsons Bight.

David puts the headsail up - more wishful thinking than useful - and ten minutes later takes it down again. With the tide under our tail we motor slowly down Johnstone Strait until we are opposite the Sophia Islands. Irene spots a large male Orca heading diagonally towards Blackney Pass and so we reduce speed and turn to run parallel with it some distance off it.

It lifts, blows, and then submerges with the huge dorsal fin disappearing below the surface.

Irene is ecstatic and then to top it off we spot two more smaller Orca towards the shore of West Cracroft and then, on cue, one of them breaches. AMAZING. Two more show up and the four of them head off towards the beach and then turn eastwards. We spot about five more crossing Blackney Pass. Whale overload.

The two Whale Watching Boats from Telegraph Cove arrive and the big male puts on a show for one and then heads towards the other - almost as if they had some sort of agreement going between them and the whale. It then went across to a third whale watcher and in going to each of them had to travel a couple of hundred metres between and change direction of travel.

Eventually we decide to leave them and head into Blackney Pass past a host of small fishing boats working around the tide races. Two more Dahl's Porpoises are fishing just near the entrance.

We are going to go to Crease Island to the anchorage behind Goat Island and we decide to take Whitebeach Passage into Farewell Harbour and Irene heads to the bow to keep a look out for unexpected lumps in the water. It is quite narrow and the tide is against us and so we work slowly up through the choke point to turn to port through the gap between Compton Island and Sarah Islets. We were later to find out that the white beach was in fact an old midden of clam shells.

We cross Farewell Harbour picking up boat speed while Irene is busy reading the NBT Guide and the Douglass' book on the approach to the anchorage.

The tide is well out and the rocks covered with kelp show quite clearly but we still keep the boat speed well down with Irene up on the bow. There are several other boats in and we pick a spot roughly in the centre of the anchorage.

1605 The anchor is down and set and we square away.

The view across Village Channel is good and the little maze of passages and islands is clear. What a wonderful spot.

18th JULY - Wednesday

Crease Island anchorage. We have woken to an overcast sky and what looks like thick fog or light rain - can't be sure of which as the weather forecast from Comox says there is both around. Whatever it is you can't see across to the Indian Group of Islands.

David chats to some Kayakers who have spent the night on the shore in a tiny indent in the anchorage. They have come from Port McNeill and are heading back in that direction after having been in the area for a week.

Take the morning to tidy up and then just after lunch speak to Jack Schreiber on Sanctuary and arrange to see them back in Port McNeill next Monday.

Take the ducky and go gunkholing around the anchorage and into the next cove dodging the large lumps of kelp that hang back and forth on the tide and hopefully the odd rock underneath them.

The ducky has been in the water now for about six weeks and there is green stuff hanging off the underneath part of the transom so David heads for a little beach to scrub the bottom.

A delightful little beach composed of smooth stones with the odd sharp ones. There is thin weed on the bottom of the dinghy and scum and several small limpets which are removed with the scrubbing brush. The outboard is replaced on the transom and the oars stowed and tied in and "ducky" is back in business.

The wind has died away and the sun is out and David sets out to troll for Salmon outside the anchorage - without success - so what's new. He thinks they are as mythical as the Thunderbird after which our boat is named.

The anchorage is filling up again and the clouds are patchy again with the wind rising. The forecast is not brilliant for tomorrow. We are amazed that the forecasts for Johnstone Strait and Queen Charlotte Strait are so different for the same period of time. They sit so close to each other. We may or may not move tomorrow depending on the weather and how the mood takes us.

Mamaliliculla still sits over the other side of Village Channel and we want to visit it before moving on from this area.

Just sitting here watching the changing clouds and colours is relaxing.

19th JULY - Friday

Foggy and overcast. We were going to move but decide otherwise.

We are at Crease Island and have decided to have a "Make and mend" day as Irene is feeling unwell. Make and Mend was an old Naval term for time allotted for the sailor to attend to his domestic needs such as mending clothing or indulging in a hobby of some sort.

The First Aid and Medical kit that so much time and effort went into putting together proves it was worth the trouble.

Irene has a sleep in. David does some tidying up and minor maintenance.

As the sun comes out in the early afternoon David digs out his sketch book and pencils which have lain idle since Forward Harbour and sketches a converted fishing boat, Blue Eagle, which lies in the anchorage near us.

It is time for the Marine Atlas, charts and the Northwest Guide to reappear and do some more planning for where we are going to go when our friends from Australia arrive on the 24th. David spends a couple of hours on that with charts of the islands on the east side of Queen Charlotte Strait spread out through the cabin.

Several yachts come in and spread themselves in an arc around us. They are obviously travelling in company. Shortly after then another about 40 feet in length comes in and drops anchor about 50 metres away.

We are sitting in the cockpit soaking up the evening light and the changing aspects of the islands across and along Village Channel when a small boat from the 40 footer arrives alongside and a grey headed gent in it says, "Hello, I built your boat". He then introduces himself as Arie De Kleer - unbelievable. We were not going to be here this evening and Arie tells us this is the first time he has been into this anchorage. Not unexpectedly the yacht he is on, mega, was built by him.

The next couple of hours are spent over coffee and chatting about the design and construction of the Endurance and Fraser range of sailing vessels while all around us the anchorage is still with an amazing light show and reflections in the looking glass surface.

We solve one of the mysteries of SKYAMSEN'S design - the arched interior of the cabin which rises in a graceful curve from the side to the centre and then curves down to the other side. Arie's brother designed it and it is a copy of the design of the interior of the Rhine barges from Holland. It allows head room in the centre of the cabin where you need it and allows a good view for the person on the helm along the top of the cabin.

What started out as just another day of pottering has turned into something special.

20th JULY - Friday

Foggy and overcast again and so we turn to some neglected house work in anticipation of our friends arriving next week. We are going to go to Mamalilaculla today.

1235 Up anchor and motor slowly out north of Goat Island and across towards Fern Island before putting the helm down to turn south east into Village Channel. There seem to be more islands around us than are shown on the chart and so we move slowly until we are satisfied that we have dodged all the obstacles.

Mid channel we turn east and head along Village Channel which is mirror calm and the sun is lighting up the islands in a beautiful display. Visibility is excellent.

Before committing ourselves to the anchorage north of the old village we head along the southern side of Scrub Islet to check out if we can moor there for the time we are going to be ashore.

The likelihood is doubtful so we spin around and head back around the end of the little chain of islets that make the southern side of Eliott Passage and up into the bay where the old jetty is shown on the chart. There has been a float put in by one of the fishing companies and we join a runabout and two kayaks in tying up to it.

A short ride in the ducky to the beach in front of the houses and we are there. The tide is well up and we step ashore onto a white shell beach without getting our feet wet.

Our timing is almost impeccable as Tom Seward, who runs tours of the old village, has just started to explain the village and his people's history of occupation when we arrive and we are entertained by his forthright account of his ancestors lives and culture. There is an obvious pride in his people and their achievements and in their future. He is a raconteur par excellence and brings alive the history of the place. We would recommend that anyone planning to visit this site contact Tom Seward so they can experience his performance.

His explanation of the complexity of totem poles was fascinating and of the families acquiring new "crests" for their use through marriage. David was struck by the similarity of this with the feudal system of family crests [or "Coats of Arms" if you prefer] where a woman would take her families crest with her to be quartered into her husband's Coat of Arms for her use. They can be quite complex in their structure. Two structured societies almost half a world away with similar ideas. The universality of man is sobering. Tom's explanation of the 147 tiers in their society makes feudal society seem simple - and European man had the cheek to call these people primitive and ban part of their way of life.

After Tom's presentation we walk along to the totem pole and a young fellow on the path is busy picking bright red berries and eating them. With very little prompting he tells us that they are Thimbleberries and delicious. He is right and we spend a quarter hour picking and eating them - delicious.

1540 We are away from the float and head back the way we came to Crease Island as the weather is closing in from the North West and the anchorage is so secure we can't be bothered going further afield. It will give us a good jump off point for Johnstone Strait and more whales tomorrow.

1620 Anchor down. We are the only sailing vessel amongst the boats which have arrived since our departure.

2025 The fog rolls in through the trees on Crease Island and through the islands out in the Channel in an irresistible wave. Time to crawl into the bunk and snuggle down.

21st JULY - Saturday Foggy and still around us when we get up. Prepare for getting underway and hope the fog lifts. Radar switched on for the first time in earnest.

0950 Tom Seward's Float House and Store under tow along Village Channel to the small bay near Mamalilaculla. It had been in Farewell Harbour on the north side of Compton Island.

1050 Up anchor and motor slowly out of the anchorage towards Fern Island and then turn towards Village Channel and then west to pass along Village Channel towards Farewell Harbour. There is a lot of floating wood around - large logs. The tide is against us here but will favour us outside in Blackfish Sound. We are going Whale hunting.

We pass out of Farewell Harbour by the northern entrance and turn south down Blackfish Sound with the tide under our tails and scoot through Blackney Pass. We have been seeing these small black birds for ages and have just identified them as Rhinocerous Auclets - at last - they have been driving us crazy trying to find them in the bird book.

The sea is still as we enter Johnstone Strait and leave the fog of Queen Charlotte Strait behind us.

Several Dall's Porpoises appear. Theyseem to be shy creatures and never come near us unlike our Bottlenose Dolphins who are very gregarious and seem to be unable to resist checking out a boat or simply covorting around you.

As we near the Sophia Island Group the Orcas appear - everywhere - groups and solitary males and it is hard pressed where to look.

We are busy looking out to starboard at groups of whales when there is an enormous explosion of air to port and we turn to see a huge male orca on the surface alongside us and about 2 metres off the boat - WOW!!!! He hangs around along side us for a short time and then slowly moves away from us.

The wind appears and so the headsail goes up and the engine is off - WE ARE UNDER SAIL AT LAST.

The groups are all heading east and eventually we lose sight of them and so we reach back and forth across the Strait near Robson Bight hoping they will re-appear. They don't and so we turn the bow west and drop the sail. We have decided against Boat Bay and will head for Double Bay on Hanson Island.

Two cruise ships appear from up near Cormorant Island. The Vision of the Sea followed by Veendam. They have no soul and the beauty of the past has been lost in the race to make these ships look like something out of Star Wars.

The tide is still against us when we reach Blackney Passage and so it is going to be a hard slog into the current to get through.

As we turn to go into the Passage another cruise ship, Ocean Princess, appears. If anything she is uglier than the others. More Dall's Porpoises as we enter Blackney Passage.

Crossing Blackney Passage from the Parson Island side to the Hanson Island side takes some time bucking the current from the Spring Tide and the Perkins diesel earns its keep.

Around Burnt Point it becomes easier and we pick up boat speed and move into a fleet of small boats trolling for salmon. They are a pest as they turn in front of you and ignore everything but their own wants.

We motor slowly into Double Bay and around to a position in front of the drying bay in the South East corner.

1750 Anchor down in 6.5 metres of water on the falling tide.

The view out across Blackfish Sound to the north is magnificent but I feel we are going to be subject to a swell out of the Sound for the night even though the wind had dropped.

We sit in the cockpit and admire the scenery and have a well earned drink.

Irene's special homemade Lasagne for tea.

David decides to try his hand at seeing if there are any fish stupid enough to take a lure and so casts into the anchorage. Much to his surprise he hooks a small Lingcod. It goes back from where it came to get bigger.

22nd JULY - Sunday

0700 The alarm goes off as we want to catch the tide to go to Port McNeill. David looks outside and it is thick fog - back to bed for an hour.

0830 Up again - the fog is still there but you can see holes in it - sometimes. A check of the depth sounder shows only three and a bit metres under us so it is time to move before the display shows we are on the hard stuff - Spring tides and the word is that they will be below chart datum.

0900 Anchor is up and there is lots of lettuce draped over it which David removes before bringing it into the secure position and we motor ever so slowly into the deeper water of the harbour and then out into Blackfish Sound.

David has plotted our course on both the paper charts and the electronic chart and the radar is well and truly on and set for 2 miles range. We can just see the tip of the northern most of the Plumper Islands to the west and occasionally the top of Stubbs Island through the drifting clouds.

We approach Stubbs Weynton Passage. It is boiling around the island as it is split and there are whirlpools and small overfalls. Nosing into it we come to a dead stop and so spin around to use the tide to catapult us around the east side of Stubbs and into Cormorant Passage. The GPS shows our "speed over the ground" as 10.5 knots.

The fog thickens and thins and one minute the visibility is several miles and then down to nothing and David keeps checking the radar and the electronic chart which shows our position relative to the plotted course.

A large tug pushing a barge appears between us and Mitchell Bay at the east end of Malcolm Island and moves relentlessy on with out effort disappearing and re-appearing as the fingers of fog grip and release us.

There is wood floating everywhere in long lines where the currents from Weynton and Pearse Passages spill into Cormorant Channel and split against the southern shore of Malcolm Island.

The fog lifts and there is a clear view out into Johnstone Strait where the visibility is clear and the peaks of Vancouver Island stand clear against the sky - and then the lights are turned off as the fog comes back in.

There is a vague hint of the north side of Cormorant Island ahead of us and it is comforting that the "ships head up" radar display coincides with the island ahead of us shown on the electronic chart. It is useless trying to move into Johnstone Strait as that would entail bashing straight into the ebb in its full stride.

Leonard Point on Cormorant Island appears ahead of us just where it should be and as it does the fog lifts to show us a clear view to Port McNeill.

We pass diagonally between Cormorant and Haddington Island and two Dall's Porpoises appear off to starboard and they appear to be fishing as their location does not change as would be expected if they were in transit.

Port McNeill Harbour Master responds to our VHF call and directs us to a berth alongside the main walkway between G and H fingers of the marina. Norm, the Harbour Master, is there to meet us and take our lines as we glide into the dock.

Safely secure alongside and the sun comes out and there is no sign of the fog that enshrouded us for so much of the passage. Considering the marina seems to be absolutely full we consider ourselves lucky to have got a berth rather than anchor on the north side of the bay to wait for a space.

Linda Schreiber appears on the dock and we are once again engaged with friends.

The temptation is too great and we both succumb to the decadence of standing under a shower in the harbour facility.

There is another Sanctuary alongside near Linda and Jack's Sanctuary. The "other" Sanctuary belongs to Betsy and Alan Epstein of California and the six of us head off for dinner at the Northern Lights Restaurant for a great night of good food and good conversation. It is amazing and pleasing that, coming from such different backgrounds, we have so much in common. Both couples plan to be in Melbourne within the next twelve months and we look forward to being able to show them the best of our home city and some Australian hospitality.

Port McNeill does not have the spectacular scenery of some of the anchorages but the facilities are excellent and the hospitality is beyond question and you are made to feel really welcome. It is a very social experience to be alongside in the Marina as people stop to chat or just pass the time of day as they go past. Total strangers will stop and commence a conversation and be really interested in what you have to say rather than just passing time because they have nothing better to do.

23rd JULY - Monday

Alongside at Port McNeill. Clark and Alison are due to arrive tomorrow afternoon to spend a couple of weeks with us and it is time to square away and get ready to welcome them on board.

Washing - the ever present need - is the order of the morning and while Irene tends to that David heads off to get Irene a cappacino - and is located a half hour later sitting on the patio of the coffee shop opposite the marina busy talking to the RCMP Senior Sergeant, Chris, and Rob, one of his troops. They share a common bond as David was 34 years a member of the State Police in our home State.

E-mails - The Craft Shop on the corner of the shopping complex has a service where you take your own lap top and can, for the cost of the phone call, access the net. We are again in touch with home to catch up on the news from our children and friends.

David thinks there is a plumbing problem and is busy fossicking under the cabin sole to find a solution - and thinks he has - we will find out soon enough. Just one of those minor things which happen on any boat.

It is very hard to get any lengthy job done as people stop to chat and you really can't resist the opportunity. Rob appears to have a look at SKYAMSEN.

Afternoon drinks on Betsy and Alan's Sanctuary with Linda and Jack as well and we chat until nearly 8pm. Linda then conscripts somebody from a nearby boat to take photographs of the six of us alongside SKYAMSEN.

To top off a day that has just disappeared Graham MacDonald, the mechanic without equal, appears for coffee on his way home from grubbing around the intestines of yet more boats with problems. Frank Black appears with flowers for Irene for decoration to greet Clark and Alison and they are carefully arranged in an empty coffee jar. Not quite a Stuart crystal vause but then you don't often find Stuart crystal on a cruising yacht. Perhaps we need an unbreakable vause.

Outside a gale is blowing and it is nice to be alongside in the shelter of the marina while the anemometer at the top of the mast tries to wind itself off the housing. The forecast is for it to continue into tomorrow and we are not sorry we are planning on staying until Wednesday. Not a night to be swinging to the anchor.

24th JULY - Tuesday

Alongside at Port McNeill. Morning is spent cleaning ship and re-arranging so that Clark and Alison have room. We are looking forward to sharing this part of the world with them.

1315 Gabby picks us up and we head to the Port Hardy airport.

We are about half way there and we see our first black bear on the side of the road. A big male with glossy coat just cropping the plants off the road. We hope the photographs come out.

1405 Clark and Alison are with us.

On the drive back there is another bear close by where we saw the first one and it sits and looks around while we take five minutes to take a good look at it - from the safety of Gabby's truck.

Settle in and arrange the living area to accommodate the extra luggage and then head off to do the shopping.

Dinner is taken at the Sportsmans Bar & Restaurant with Clark, Alison, Alan and Betsy. A pleasant evening and then back to the boat.

A two master, square rigged, is in at the fuel dock. It is built in the style of the late 18th Century and is flagged in the US. Can't see its name as it is lying bow into the shore but it looks beautiful.

25th JULY - Wednesday

The forecast is for gales with winds up to 35 knots all around us and so the decision is made to wait for Thursday. Wrong - the wind eventually does not get up to more than about 10 to 15 knots and the sun shines.

Clark and Alison head off to Alert Bay on the ferry as it is a good way to see the place and not waste a day waiting to go in there on SKyamsen and it means we don't have to revisit the place and have the hassle of getting a place at the marina.

Irene catches up on the washing and we generally prepare to leave tomorrow no matter what the weather forecast.

Alan and Betsy Epstein invite us to have a good look at their Bayliner and we crawl all over it. The layout is exceptionally efficient with good use made of all available space and there had obviously been a lot of thought put into the interior design. We are impressed.

A pleasant hour and a half follows over a couple of drinks and "nibblies" before we eventually get dinner at about 2140 hours.

26th JULY - Thursday

0845 Up and about - shower, shave [for those who need it] and prepare to leave. We have bought Bear Bells and there is a fair bit of joking about the effectiveness of such tiny metal things on such big hairy things.

1000 Away from the marina having said farewell to a number of people as it is not our intention to return to Port McNeill. We found it a charming place with friendly helpful people. The facilities are excellent and it would be hard to beat as a port of call when heading either up or down the coast or as a jumping off point into the islands on the east side of Queen Charlotte Strait.

1047 We are away from the fuel dock and out into the bay. Sails up and we pay off to run down wind out of the bay with the main, fore and stay sails drawing nicely. The only draw back is that we are going to but an ebb tide past Cormorant Island.

We head east leaving Haddington Island to Port and our speed over the ground starts to drop. The sails are full but our speed is down to about 1 knot over the ground. The motor is reluctantly started and we motor/sail slowly past Cormorant Island and towards Johnstone Strait. We are hoping to see whales.

As we pass across the mouth of Telegraph Cove the Whale Watching Boats head out and cross our stern and head out towards the south east end of Malcolm Island so we guess we are going the wrong way.

The forecast is not good with the wind predicted to go around to the South East and so we again abandon the idea of staying the night in Boat Bay opposite Robsons Bight and so sail into Blackney Passage with the tide and into the wind right on the nose. Down with the sails and up the revs on the motor.

There is a huge tug with a log barge/ship in tow passing from Blackfish Sound into Johnstone Strait and Clark and Alison get their first view of some of the fascinating traffic that uses these waters as part of the daily routine.

A cruise ship appears out of the gloom in the distance up Queen Charlotte Strait and we head into Farewell Harbour through the north entrance and motor quietly along Village Channel to Crease Island and tuck back in behind Goat Island for the night.

The anchorage is quiet and Clark and Alison take the opportunity of giving the "ducky" a run and having a closer look at the fringes of the anchorage.

27th JULY - Friday

0830 Up and about. The sky is overcast and there is the threat of rain. Absolutely no wind and the anchorage is a sheet of glass.

1045 There is the usual tangle of "lettuce" around the CQR as it comes up and Clark is introduced to the delights of pruning the lettuce from the chain.

We retrace out steps out into Blackfish Sound and swing south towards Blackney Passage. There are hundreds of birds around and it has started to rain lightly with the promise or getting heavier.

It is our intention to travel along Baronet Passage and so we hug Parson Island closely until we get to Baronet and then head across to the peninsula east of Cracroft Point to avoid Bell Rocks which stand out above the falling tide. The chart shows that the ebb is against us for the first bit of Baronet and then runs the other way to favour us.

At the moment it is definitely against us as a motor launch and a sailing vessel shoot pass us on their way out into Blackfish Sound. The rain has well and truly settled in and the clouds hang low over the mountains on Vancouver Island and whisper in little tendrils up Baronet Passage. There is an unusual richness in the rain effect on the trees which line both shores and hang over the water and even though there is no sailing the trip is enjoyable.

A new float house with a group of small fishing boats sits in a small cove just east of Walden Island and looks like a small fishing lodge.

Walden Island is left to starboard but a runabout from the float house disappears up the other side on the plane. Jamieson Island is left to starboard and we cross the entrance to Beware Passage with the ruins of Karlukwees clear across to port. We hug the north side of Klaoitsis Island and then slow down to motor into Potts Lagoon.

There is a boat at anchor in the bay to the east as you enter and we opt for the inner anchorage - which we cannot see at this stage. Tide is well out and we edge slowly in with Irene calling the depths from the sounder. With a depth of only 3.5 metres under us as we nose past the island at the entrance we are about to turn SKyamsen on her tail and go to the outer anchorage when the depth jumps to six metres and so we pick a spot and drop the anchor.

1405 Anchor down and set.

Side curtains in around the dodger and Bimini and we are sealed up from the rain and head below for the late hot lunch that Alison has prepared.

A lazy afternoon listening to the rain on the coach house and Bimini while Alison and Irene nap.

Having read Jonathan Raban's book, "Passage to Juneau" we expected to perhaps find one float house here but there are three and a group of boats tied to them. What does stand out is the ruins of a pier which is now isolated from the shore but which has a small forest growing on the top of it with trees about two metres tall.

There is a converted work boat anchored near us and the owners, Dan and Irene, invite us over to have a look at her. All in the ducky - well not quite all - it requires two trips to get over.

The boat is a converted Canadian Forestry vessel which has worked up around the Bella Bella area. It is snug and well fitted out for the family and obviously well loved.

We settle down for the night with the rain on the coach house and Bimini.

28th JULY - Saturday

Up early and dress and then head off in the ducky to explore the lagoon while the tide is in. Irene and David first and then Clark and Alison. With the dull overcast morning the dark colours of the water and the surrounding trees hanging over the sides of the passage in make it quite eerie. Inside is lighter but it seems unwise to go to the head of the lagoon as there appear to be snags in the water and a punctured ducky is not wanted.

0950 Anchor is up and Irene calls Lagoon Cove Marina to book a berth. We join the queue but decide to go into get fuel anyway so head that way. We motor slowly out into Clio Channel and turn north east.

The wind and tide are behind us but as the wind is quite flukey the sails stay down.

We leave Negro Rock well to starboard and the weather starts to clear up and by the time we are abreast the entrance [or should that be exit?] into Knight Inlet the sun is out.

1145 We motor slowly into Lagoon Cove and into the fuel dock and top up with diesel. We are met by Bill on the dock who welcomes us and tells us that he thinks he can fit us in so David heads along to the south dock to inspect a small finger pointing towards the shore. A short discussion with Bill and it is decided that the aft half of SKyamsen will fit and we can tie the bow across to the float house where the crabs and prawns get cooked.

1240 We are alongside and the bow is pointing straight at Bill and Jean's house with two long lines from the bow holding it steady while the stern line and aft spring hold the boat against the finger. We are about 3 feet off a Bayliner at our stern.

Exercise time and Clark and Alison head off into the forest with their bear bell and David and Irene take the path to the Blow Hole. David has forgotten the bear bell so walks along saying "Ding, ding" in a loud voice. It obviously worked as not a bear was to be seen.

There is a collection of burgees in the old workshop and so we present a Northwest Boat Travel burgee to Bill to add to his collection and to spread the word about NBT quietly and subtly - well not too subtly. We will send him one from Royal Melbourne Yacht Squadron when we get home.

We spend some time talking to Ken and Lynne from Sea Breeze I, the Bayliner behind us, and then Lynne heads off to round up some crabs for us courtesy of Vaughan who also offers to give us any catch he has in his pots in the morning.

1700 Happy Hour - a pleasant hour and a bit sitting at the old work shed with a plate of cooked prawns courtesy of Bill, drink and nibbles and chatting to people.

Starters for dinner is a half crab each - bliss, heaven - followed by another pasta masterpiece by Alison.

2100 There is a good gathering at the campfire/marshmallow roast and the view is restful and quite beautiful as the sun goes down.

The recommendation to come to Lagoon Cove was certainly spot on.

29th JULY - Sunday

Up and into it early.

While David pays up the account Alison heads off with Vaughan to check the crab pots and returns with three. A little instruction from Lynne and Vaughan and she has them cleaned, split and in the pot in no time. There is going to be crab for lunch.

1100 We are away under motor and head out into Clio Channel and then out through the exit into Knight Inlet to turn the bow west into both the tide and the wind.

There is a cutter rigged yacht beating across the Inlet and not making much headway along the Inlet. Good luck to him - that seems like hard work for little gain.

We motor west along Knight Inlet leaving Lady Island to starboard. As we go the current is dropping and by the time we get to Ripple Bluff on Village Island it is going our way.

Our course is a line from close in to Tribune Point to Slope Point on Gilford Island to turn into Spring Passage clearly east of Ridge Rock. The chop on Knight Inlet is now behind us and we have flat water even if it is current effected.

David has laid a course on the electronic chart to keep us clear of the lumps in Spring Passage and Irene disappears down to the Nav Station to keep an eye on our position.

A large power boat passes us heading towards Knight Inlet without slowing down and David gives him an earful for his discourtesy as we swing our bows into the large wake spreading out behind him. Some people should not be allowed out in anything larger than a kayak until they learn some manners - let alone the rules of the road as he crosses to pass us starboard to starboard.

Leaving Henrietta Island to starboard we pass out into Retreat Passage in bright sunlight and a gentler breeze.

Health Bay slips by to starboard and we start to have a serious look at the chart to take us into Waddington Bay. A quick reference to the NBT Guide and we turn North West leaving the Fox Group to starboard and then motor slowly into Waddington Bay.

1520 Anchor down and set just off the inner island at the head of Waddington. A late lunch of Crab Salad.

Wind is quite strong and gusting however anchorage is good. We head off for a look around in the ducky but give it away as there is quite a chop and Irene is getting wetter than she finds acceptable without her wet weather gear.

30th JULY - Monday

We are up and about at a reasonable hour. The weather is overcast and there is the promise of rain to come - so what's new.

The four of us take the opportunity of the still conditions to head off in the ducky and poke into all the little corners and islands surrounding this great anchorage. There is a rock at the entrance to Waddington - actually there are lots of rocks at the entrance to Waddington but this one was unique in that there were about a hundred small black and white birds making an awful racket and totally ignoring us in the ducky sitting alongside them. There was one very pretty brown and white bird with beautiful markings on the edge of the rock ignoring us as well as the others. We eventually work out that the solitary bird was a Sanderling and the raucous colony were Black Turnstones.

It is easy to see why this is such a popular spot.

1145 Anchor up and motor slowly out of the bay. David turns to starboard too soon and we have to spend 10 minutes extracting ourselves from a narrow passage and back out into the way we come in.

We leave the Fox Group to Port on the way out and then turn North East to wind our way along Retreat Passage to Cramer Pass. A large power boat passes us at speed and is taking a course that he either knows is safe or is ignoring the rocks shown on the chart through which we have plotted a dog leg course. There is no sudden stop in his progress into Cramer Pass so we guess he knew where he was going or was lucky.

Cramer Pass has the tide against us - again - and the trip is slower but uneventful and Echo Bay opens up to starboard with the vista of the Birdwood Group of islands ahead and the peaks of Miriam Range behind them.

1350 We motor into Echo Bay and select a berth and nose quietly in and then spin SKyamsen around to face outwards again for ease of leaving. If you have ever tried to manoeuvre a long keel sailing vessel astern you will know why we turn her around. They will motor astern but that long keel acts like a huge rudder holding her straight and you have to use your "prop walk" to get any turning at all - either that or make use of any breeze that there is to swing you away from the dock and turn you. It is better to swing the boat while you can.

The sun has finally poked through the clouds. Echo Bay is busy with float planes coming and going from Windsong Sea Village across the narrow stretch of water and little boats cross back and forth to the public dock.

For some time we have been hearing vessels calling Windsong Barge and we wondered why this vessel was so popular. Question answered as the "office" for the Sea Village has Windsong Barge on the name plate.

Our large salmon steak is on the menu for the night and Alison bakes it with a wonderful sauce and an exotic salad and we accompany it with a bottle of Mouton Cadet white - who says life on a sailing vessel is uncivilized.

31st JULY - Tuesday

The sun is shining and there is a gentle breeze - a fervent prayer is muttered to keep the breeze until we are out into the open water.

We have been told that Bill's Museum is worth a look at and so the ducky gets a work our ferrying the four of us to the public wharf for the walk through the forest to Bill's. David is still not sure about this bear thing and the bells are back on board so we head off talking loudly with David doing his bell impression - the bears are probably looking at us and rolling around laughing at this strange behaviour. It makes David happy so what the heck.

The aroma of the cedar wood is the background to the collection of what Bill calls his junk. His collection of bottles is amazing and the museum is small but very carefully laid out and labelled and well worth the visit and the donation we leave behind for him.

1230 We are away out of Echo Bay and the sails are up but there is not much movement and we spend a lot of time tacking our way out to Raleigh Passage. There is a little bit more breeze coming down Fife Sound and we get a lift - for only too brief a time. There is a "bird convention" off towards Fife Sound and the noise is shattering. Our slow and silent approach puts a stop to the meeting temporarily as they head off a couple of hundred metres to resume the discussion. Probably just as well we don't understand "Bird" for they were no doubt miffed at our intrusion.

1500 The sails are down as the wind has died and we have a way to go to Simoom Sound where we plan to spend the night.

A quick check on our position and a course for the mouth of the sound is plotted and we are away.

Entering the Sound is like entering another world as the sides close in and tower above us. Bald Mountain towers above us and Tom Seward's description of it in terms of his peoples mythology springs to life and it is easy to spot the claw marks of the eagle as it slid into the mirrored water of the sound.

There is a fish farm on the south side of the sound opposite Hannant Point and the workers wave to us as we motor slowly past.

The head of the sound is crowded and so anchoring there is out and we spin around to head back to McIntosh Bay to find that it has been buoyed off and entry is not possible. Two boats occupy the small bay to the east of McIntosh and so we are out of places to go as the only likely places warn of blasting taking place.

A quick radio call to Shawl Bay and Lorne tells us there is a berth for us and so we head back down the Sound. We are less than a nautical mile from Shawl Bay as the Thunderbird flies but our name will not help us and it is the long track by water.

A course is not difficult as all we have to do is keep the Wishart Peninsula about a quarter mile to starboard and follow it around through Penphrase Passage. We are slipping along quite nicely into the evening light when Sod's Law strikes - no turbulence under the stern - a sweetly running diesel but no drive.

A quick radio message to Shawl Bay to let them know we are going to be a while getting there and the sails go up while David checks the transmission linkage and the fluid level in the Borg Warner gear box. We can go astern but not ahead. There is no wind and we just hang there. Lorne offers to give us a tow and it is cheerfully accepted and we rig for towing while we wait his arrival.

A matter of ten minutes and he is with us and we are under tow into Shawl Bay.

2000 We are alongside in Shawl Bay and rig for what could be a stay of a few days.

David calls Graham MacDonald at Port McNeil to give him the good news and to find out what can be done - simple - pull the bloody gear box out and send it to him.

1st AUGUST - Wednesday

An early start and breakfast of pancakes and coffee on the dock with the other boaters that are in and then we split to attend to the various necessities. It is pouring with rain.

Clark and Alison spend the time socializing with people we have met along the way and go with Anne to check her prawn pots.

Irene spends the time talking to Carol and Jerry who are locals and have an intimate knowledge of the area and its wildlife.

David's day is taken care of as he, Lorne and Barry extract the gear box from SKyamsen. It is time to be grateful for the size and layout of the vessel as lifting the engine box away from its hinges and moving the table in forward of it exposes both motor and gear box to view with relative ease of access.

1430 It is out and on the dock - such an inoffensive little thing to look at but also a heavy little bugger. A half hour after it is out it is on a float plane on its way to Port McNeil and SKyamsen sits a little higher at the stern.

An hours tidying up and, apart from the engine box not going back into place precisely owing to the frame Lorne has constructed to support the back of the motor the inside is ship shape and clean.

Clark and Alison have lost their bunk and so are going to sleep ashore in a small float cabin.

It is still raining and we settle down for the night with the hope that the problem is not too great.

Shawl Bay had been on our intended itinerary but not quite in this fashion. Lorne, Shawn and Rob, their son, have made us welcome and if we were going to get stuck somewhere then the Sea God has been kind to us.

2nd AUGUST - Thursday

Bloody Rain - it hasn't stopped. There is a little lightness in the sky and perhaps that signals an end to it.

Breakfast on the float - pancakes and coffee and lots of them. A cheery mob making light of the weather. And then - miracle - there are no little rain rings on the mirror of the bay.

Clark and Alison take the ducky and head off to explore around the bay and Irene and David attend to the laundry while the generator is still running. We feel guilty at having friends come so far to be stranded on a boat with mechanical problems but people here have been marvellous and their time has been full of people to talk to and things to do.

We have run low on beer and wine and people from just round the corner are off to Sullivan Bay and very kindly offer to bring us back supplies. We must have wine for the cook. You know the old saying - "I use wine to cook with - and sometimes I put it in the food".

Lorne, a man of many talents, arranges with Anne to take Clark and Alison fishing and they disappear at midday to catch the tide.

We head off in the ducky to do the rounds of the bay and head around the shore line looking for River Otters as we saw one yesterday and Clark and Alison saw two this morning. There is no wind and it is pleasant crawling along close to the shore and marvelling at the variety and proliferation of life next to the bay.

To ease the frustration of not being able to press on a seal performs for us and several sea gulls sit on a floating log surveying their territory. Two of them are Napoleon Gulls which are pretty birds.

The entrance into the lagoon which forms one side of the narrow isthmus of land connecting Wishart Peninsula to the mainland opens up as we approach and the water is flooding into the lagoon beyond. We discuss the proposition of entering but decide against it as there appear to be rocks which would not do our outboard a great deal of good. A wise decision as Rob, from Shawl Bay, later informs us that passage is possible but needs care and you have to get out before the tide drops or it is a portage to get the dinghy out.

A large motor cruiser heads purposefully across the bay travelling north and disappears behind a point and is followed by a small inflatable up on the plane. It is not till we move out past the point that we notice that the narrow strip of water leads to the pass between Gregory Island and the mainland and is obviously navigable as both boats are on the other side of the pass.

As we cross back across the mouth of Shawl Bay we can look North West past Stackhouse Island up Sutlej Channel which has several power boats crawling across its glassy surface like water beetles and one solitary sailing vessel sitting like the ship from Coleridge's Tale of the Ancient Mariner. There is automatic sympathy for the plight of this graceful wind driven vessel struck into immobility by the stillness.

Float houses - lots of float houses. Some are new and beautifully maintained and would grace any urban street while others are ramshackle and appear to be about to join the other decomposing vegetation which nourishes the life of the area.

We get up close and personal to a Bald Eagle which sits in a tree hanging over us and the water but it will not budge and we circle waiting and willing it to move so that Irene can photograph that moment when it hurls itself from the branches - and then misses it - Bugger.

Our good Samaritans are back with the booze and the cook can be kept happy again.

Happy hour on the float and we spend time discussing the important things of the world like rowing and rugby football and what to look at if someone comes to Australia and then it is time to get dinner.

2130 It's coming back tomorrow by plane!! Our gear box is repaired and the clutch plates replaced. That paragon of mechanics has done it.

It is raining again - or is that still? Coming from a land where the Sun God reigns we long for its merciless scrutiny and the benevolent warmth. Despite the stunning beauty of the place at this moment it is not difficult to understand George Vancouver's mood in Desolation Sound.

3rd AUGUST - Friday

We are still alongside at Shawl Bay Marina - we couldn't leave even if we wanted to - nothing between the motor and propellor shaft. The weather? Oh yes it is STILL BLOODY RAINING. We woke up with the absolute myseries - most unlike us.

Clark and Alison have gone fishing with Anne in Fishin Annie which is one of the best equipped 19 foot power boats David has seen. Clark is enthusiastic about it. We have pancakes and coffee for breakfast and chat. There is a good feeling about Shawl Bay Marina and its people - a generosity of spirit and a genuine caring for the people who pass through.

We sit waiting for the float plane to arrive. Irene is attending to her diary and work on the lap top while David strips the cushions and moves the engine box so that the work can commence as soon as the gear box arrives.

To fill in a bit of time David stands on the end of the dock jigging and catches a flounder - no barb on the hook and the landing net is on SKyamsen - bye bye Flounder.

The plane arrives in the late morning and Rob and Barry go to collect the gear box. Lorne materializes and they are in to putting the gear box back. The work team is Lorne [Chief mechanic and fountain of knowledge], Rob, Barry and David and they manage to make the installation enjoyable as it can be.

Clark and Alison have had a great trip and managed to catch [and release] a half dozen Coho salmon - much to David's disgust as he hasn't caught one yet.

The gear box is back in and everything connected and the moment of truth arrives. The Perkins jumps into life and is left running for five minutes to warm up and with SKyamsen firmly tied to the dock with bow and stern lines and springs the gear lever is pushed forward. There is a healthy turbulence under the transom and she strains forward against the bow spring and stern line. Into reverse and she moves back on the stern spring and bow line. Joy!! We are mechanically mobile again.

Clean up and put everything back into place and the horn sounds to pipe "Up Spirits" on the float - Happy hour is with us again. Not only that but the sun is shining.

Lorne and Barry are presented with small Koalas for services above and beyond the call of duty and wear them clinging to their jackets. Robbie has a Kangaroo clipped to his T shirt. A Koala, a very sedentary animal, was not considered appropriate for someone who hops from dock to dock assisting the incoming boats.

The forecast is bad and a low - almost reminiscent of our Tropical Lows - has settled in and the rain has started again.

We are snug in our boat, cleaned up, squared away, organized and warm with the Wabasto on.

4th AUGUST - Saturday

The rain has eased but the weather forecast is not good - the prediction is for Storm Force winds [around 52 knots] and the decision is to stay put and arrange for Clark and Alison to leave from Shawl Bay.

Breakfast over the clean up begins - the cockpit is wiped clean and dry and wet weather gear is hopefully folded for a while - that's a mistake.

Clark and Alison are off fishing again and Clark is hooked [pun not intended]. David fills in a bit of time fishing off the dock and lands another Flounder. Too small so back it goes.

We take the ducky and head off to watch the seals at play and poke around the shores of the bay and its island.

The afternoon is booked up with Clark and Alison off fishing again with Anne. David takes the ducky to head out into the bay to jig. The result is a batch of Rock Cod and in the process of throwing one back which was too small a Bald Eagle swoops and takes it from the surface of the water right in front of the ducky. A couple more Rock Cod and the routine is established and so a quick trip back to SKyamsen and we both head back out to feed the eagles. They are spectacular and take the fish off the water only a couple of metres from the ducky.

Clark and Alison have been doing the same thing with Anne and we compare notes.

Happy hour is followed by a Pot Luck and a very social evening.

It is still raining.

5th AUGUST - Sunday

IT IS STILL BLOODY RAINING - AAAAAAARRRRRGGGHHH!!!!!!!!

The forecast has boats piling into Marinas and Channel 73 is hectic.

Alison cooks Crab Omelette for breakfast - decadence.

A float plane arrives and whisks Clark and Alison away and we are on our own again - as on your own as you can be in a Marina full of friendly people.

The boat behind us has Sail Mail on board and operating and so David heads on board to discuss his problems and try and find a solution. He returns no further advanced but tries again anyway. Still no luck.

Laundry and a number of other small jobs fill the day and we prepare for another Pot Luck tonight.

6th AUGUST - Monday

0820 We have woken too late to be ready for breakfast on the dock so we miss out on the pancakes.

There is something missing - the rain has gone and while the sky is overcast the dock is dry.

0900 There is frantic activity on the dock as people disconnect power leads, attach dinghies to towing points and generally prepare for sea. In a short space of time the docks are nearly empty except for a few boats that are staying and a couple of late leavers like us.

Our ducky needs pumping out and David attends to that while Irene settles our account and then we are ready to go.

Leaving takes a while as we have to say goodbye to Lorne, Shawn, Rob and Aunty Jo. We are glad to be going but are leaving behind new friends. This may not be the most modern marina nor the most upmarket but for us it has been outstanding and the memories of Shawl Bay and its people will be rich and long lasting.

1030 The lines are off and we edge slowly astern out beyond the dock and then engage forward gear and move slowly out into the bay.

Our first destination is Sullivan Bay to refuel and so we head out of the bay into sunshine across Kingcome Inlet on our starboard side and then through Pasley Pass leaving Stackhouse Island to port. The motor is ticking and there is a healthy turbulence under the transom. We are free of shore again.

There are boats on the move all over the place heading in both directions and once again we encounter the ignorance of some people in large power boats who cut close across our bows from port to starboard oblivious or uncaring of Rule 15 of the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea and certainly ignorant of Rule 2 governing the "Ordinary Practice of Seamen". Another sailing vessel not far from us has to make a quick alteration of course to minimize the wash of one of these dills.

The day is too nice to let these bozos spoil it and we head steadily along Sutlej Channel crossing Greenway Sound on our port side. It looks like we'll have to come back if we are going to go to Greenway.

The volt meter and tachometer are not reading correctly and David feels that we should alter our plans and head for Port McNeil after Sullivan Bay to have them checked. He feels that it is probably something minor in the re-installation of the gear box and the reconnection of leads but we have a long way to go south and so we are going to make the trip back. It will also give us the chance to restock on food and drink and to once again thank that mechanic par excellence, Graham MacDonald.

Cutting close across Cartwright Point we look into Cartwright Bay. Our paper charts bear a small pencil anchor in the bay and it looks like it would make a good anchorage though open to the north.

1245 We are standing into Sullivan Bay and have to sit off the fuel dock for about 20 minutes. In the process we spot Betsy Epstein on the dock waving madly and looking around we can see Sanctuary moored close by.

Irene and Betsy greet each other like they had been apart for years not two weeks and the decision is made to stay at Sullivan Bay tonight.

1330 We are alongside just astern of Sanctuary and step out to explore Sullivan Bay Marina. What a wonderful place - a veritable little village on water. There is one house with a helicopter on the roof - amazing - and another very well kept one with a For Sale notice in the window. David wants to buy it but it is a hell of a trip to come to a weekend cottage.

We have been invited to dinner with the Epsteins - Al and Betsy and their daughter, son-in-law and two grandchildren. Grandchild fix - beauty.

A very pleasant evening sitting in the saloon of the Bayliner munching on tacos and burritos made on the spot. It is lovely to have a "family evening" even if it is not our family.

7th AUGUST - Tuesday

0805 Poke the nose out the hatch - thick fog. Bugger - we have about 27 miles to go and fog means little or no wind.

We are rigged and ready for sea and waiting for the fog to lift and in the meantime chat on the dock to the Epsteins who are heading for Shawl Bay prepatory to heading south.

1017 There is a window in the fog and we cast off and head out into the bay with the radar going just in case and a course set on the electronic charts.

We are off the North East tip of Atkinson Island and the curtain of fog lifts to reveal a beautiful sunny day with no wind so we are resigned to motoring.

Passing out of Patrick Passage we look wistfully North West into Grappler Sound and its lead into Claydon Bay but it is not for us just yet and we turn South West into Wells Passage leaving Surgeon Islets to starboard.

There is a beautiful view down Wells Passage towards Queen Charlotte Strait and we sit and enjoy the sun and the warmth while it lasts and hope for some wind once in the Strait. Behind us the mountains of mainland B.C lift into the cloud which wraps itself around their peaks.

The mouth of Carter Passage is to port and the little pencil drawn anchor on our charts for Dickson Island will remain unexplored as we pass Ommaney Islet and change course to lay the east end of Numas Islands a third of the way across the Strait.

There is no wind and so the sails remain folded. The water is like a sheet of glass again and there are birds all over the place and we spot two groups of Porpoises but we are not near enough to identify them.

We are off Malcolm Point on the North West tip of Malcolm Island before the wind ruffles the water and it is now not worth putting the sails up and so we pick our way between the kelp patches off Graeme Point before turning East to leave Pulteney Point and its light house close to Port. The sun is shining and highlighting the manicured grounds of the light house. We hope the photographs come out. A pod of porpoises on a reciprocal course split to pass either side of SKyamsen.

The flooding tide lifts our speed over the ground up over 6 knots and nearly 7 knots and we fairly zip down channel to the buoy off Neill Rock and then turn south into the bay of Port McNeill and then up to the breakwater.

We are assigned a berth rafted to another boat on A dock and cheerfully accept it.

1615 We are alongside and tied up.

David heads off to retrieve e-mails and phone Graham MacDonald who arrives a half hour later to start to sort out the problems with the tachometer and volt meter. We hope this is the last of the problems associated with pulling the gear box out and putting it back in.

An early night is called for.

Go To Log # 6