Canoeing has a long tradition in British Columbia and has played an important role in shaping its history. Canoes were the means by which the first explorers made their way through British Columbia's virgin wilderness. They were an important form of transportation in the northern part of the province right up to the middle of this century before the highway system was fully developed.

B.C.'s wilderness can still be found by canoe much as it was when the first explorers ventured into remote mountainous regions. Lush forest, abundant wildlife and spectacular scenery must have overwhelmed those early explorers who never got advanced photos of what to expect. Present-day canoe explorers who have seen photos are still overwhelmed, not only by its beauty but by the wealth of natural history that is laid bare by this rugged terrain along its natural water courses.

As they paddle their way through coastal rain forests of Douglas fir, hemlock and cedar, through the dense spruce forests of the interior mountains or the desert-like terrain of south central British Columbia, canoeists have a non-intrusive ringside seat to the natural habitat of bear, deer, moose, bald eagles and hundreds of other species of birds and mammals.

The major waterways used for canoeing in British Columbia are classified according to their difficulty based on the International River Classification system of six grades. These grades are referred to in some of the descriptions below. Grade 1 rivers are suitable for novices in open canoes while Grade 6 rivers are considered nearly impossible and very dangerous for even the most advanced kayaker. Grade 2 and 3 rivers can be navigated in open canoes but require intermediate and advanced paddlers and some advance scouting. Grade 4 and 5 rivers are not suitable for open canoes but can be navigated in closed canoes or kayaks.

As with most outdoor activities in this province, the natural beauty steals the show, providing that key ingredient to turn good canoeing into an unforgettable wilderness experience. Among the best known areas:

LAKE CIRCUITS

Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit -- Bowron Lakes Provincial Park is one of the few places in the world where novice paddlers can canoe a 116-kilometre (72-mile) circuit of scenic lakes in virgin wilderness and come back to finish where they began. Bowron Lakes Provincial Park is located in the Cariboo Mountain Range east of Quesnel. Ten lakes nestled between the mountains form a rectangular chain, with seven portages necessary to move from one lake to the next. This is a very popular canoeing area - where else so far from civilization would you be advised to start a canoe trip mid-week to avoid delays in the weekend rush? Actually, it is mainly because no groups larger than six are allowed to start at a time (larger groups if prior permission is sought) and because park officials prefer to space groups some distance apart. And when 50 individuals have departed, that's it for the day. This park has no development except for a number of organized campsites. No motor boats are allowed except on Bowron Lake. Canoeists must be prepared to camp in all conditions and must also register at the park registration centre.

Wells Gray Provincial Park -- Clearwater, Azure, Mahood and Murtle lakes are all popular with wilderness canoeists. These lakes are in the shadow of the beautiful Cariboo Mountain range. Canoeing often provides the only access to hiking trails that lead to pristine alpine meadows. This is a wilderness area with few, if any, organized campsites and no amenities. It's an asset if you have had some wilderness experience. The access communities to this huge provincial park are 100 Mile House to the west and Clearwater to the south. Access to some lakes is only by portage and power boats are under restrictions.

Slocan Lake and River - There is a lot of history in evidence in this area, from archaeological sites to remnants of Japanese internment camps and Doukhobor settlements. Agriculture here has developed almost seamlessly with nature. Trails from the lake's edge lead to the lower alpine reaches of Valhalla and Kokanee Glacier mountain parks on either side. The lake provides excellent canoeing and a relaxing atmosphere. The river, from Slocan City south to the Kootenay River, has Grade 3 rapids in its upper sections for the white water canoeist and less demanding water further down.

Powell River Forest Circuit - This is a 65-kilometre (40-mile) circuit with about eight kilometres (five miles) of portage that can be paddled by novice canoeists in the forested mountain area just east of Powell River. It takes from five to seven days, depending on how hard you press. There are some 20 maintained recreation sites over its length and can be enjoyed over a long season, from April to November. Excellent lake canoeing in the magnificent scenery of the Coast Mountains. The much-photographed mountain fjord Jervis Inlet is closeby.

RIVERS

Similkameen River -- Canoeists usually divide this river in the south central interior of British Columbia into two sections. The upper part, above Princeton, is Grade 5, not suitable for open canoes but it attracts kayakers. Below Princeton, the river provides two days of excellent paddling with rapids between Grade 1 and 3. This is well-travelled, populated countryside with a wealth of history and an abundance of wildlife. Campsites and access points are easy to find.

Fraser River - This mighty river flows from high in the Rocky Mountains halfway up the province, down its spine and empties into the Pacific Ocean at Vancouver. At some points, it squeezes through narrow gorges. At its mouth, it spreads over a broad expanse a kilometre wide. In its upper reaches among the Cariboo Mountains, the Fraser from Tete Jaune Cache to Penny is Grade 1 and 2. Without exception, where the river has cut canyons, Grade 3 and 4 rapids have resulted that are not considered navigable by open canoe; for example, from Penny to Sinclair Mills is known as the "Grand Canyon" of the Upper Fraser, with Grade 4 rapids. Still, there are long stretches without serious hazards. Access along the river's length is easy as it meanders through towering mountains, rolling plateau and dry highland before finally descending to sea level through the Coast Mountains via the Fraser Canyon. Local information is a must for visiting canoeists.

Stikine River - To canoeists who really want to get away from it all, the Stikine River, which traverses the Coast Mountains in northern British Columbia, is nirvana. This river has its origins in Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Provincial Park. Some rapids in the upper reaches are Grade 5 and, depending on water levels, up to five portages are required around them. West of Highway 37 along the Stikine is its Grand Canyon, considered unnavigable. However, this can be bypassed by vehicle via a road west from Dease Lake, near the town of Telegraph Creek. From here, the river cuts through the glacier-capped Coast Mountains to the Pacific Ocean - spectacular scenery and superlative white-water canoeing in untouched wilderness. There is no road access to the mouth of the Stikine: canoeists must arrange pickup by jet-boat ferry back to Telegraph Creek or paddle on to Wrangell, Alaska where a plane can be chartered.

Chilliwack River - This river, within 90-minutes' reach of Vancouver, has something for everyone - easy paddling, challenging rapids for experienced canoeists and Grade 3-5 whitewater considered unnavigable by open canoe but a challenge to kayakers. River rafts also ply the waters of the Chilliwack for whitewater thrills. The river originates in the American Cascade Mountain range, in the shadow of Washington State's Mount Baker, the 3,285-metre (10,800-foot) volcanic cone that dominates the landscape of the Lower Mainland. It pauses briefly in Chilliwack Lake just inside the Canadian border and from there thunders down into the Fraser Valley to join the Fraser River just west of Chilliwack. The section just below the lake is considered too rough for open canoe. A section below that has Grade 3 and 4 rapids for advanced canoeists and below Vedder Crossing is easy paddling. Camping facilities are readily available nearby so visitors from Vancouver can make this either a day-trip or an adventure weekend. Enquire first about water levels since they vary dramatically.

Thompson River - This river is popular with river rafters as well as canoeists. The Thompson drains large areas of B.C.'s south central interior around Kamloops before it empties into the Fraser River at Lytton for the rough ride to the coast through the Fraser Canyon. The North Thompson from Blue River to Clearwater Canyon has Grade 5 rapids; from Clearwater to Kamloops, there are Grade 2 rapids, suitable for novice to intermediate canoeists. The Shuswap Lakes, the South Thompson and Kamloops Lake provide a pleasant, easy paddle. Between Kamloops Lake and Spences Bridge are rapids for intermediate and advanced canoeists. The waters below Spences Bridge are Grade 4 and 5, not considered navigable by canoe. Much of the Thompson is set in the high, dry interior plateau of B.C.; the sagebrush, Ponderosa Pine and bald landscape are a curious contrast to the lush forests that cover most of the province. Trips along the Thompson can last for days.

OCEAN CANOEING

There are plenty of ocean canoeing possibilities all along British Columbia's protected coastal waterways, among the Gulf Islands at the south end of Vancouver Island (close to urban communities) or in isolated coastal wilderness between the north end of Vancouver Island and the mainland. Tidal currents flushing through the islands can provide exciting canoeing to challenge the most advanced. The scenery here is magnificent; distant snow-capped mountains are the backdrop for this stretch of island-strewn protected ocean waterway. Local information on tides and narrows should be obtained by the visitor to avoid situations that can be dangerous at times. An additional factor, weather, is important in open-water areas.

The Broken Group Islands - This group of islands off the west coast of Vancouver Island is part of Pacific Rim National Park, which also encompasses the stunning scenery of Long Beach. You'll find saltwater canoeing that is for the most part sheltered from the open ocean by more than 100 small islands. Here is an unmatched variety of ocean flora and fauna, a truly unique part of the world that is well worth the effort it takes to reach it. Access requires you either take a passenger ferry from Port Alberni to Gibralter Island or that you paddle in ocean water from the end of a logging road on Vancouver Island. There are designated camping locations on the islands but no facilities so you must carry everything you need. And don't come with a tight schedule to keep because weather here, in the form of fog, wind and rain, adds to ocean ambience but often makes schedules meaningless.