HEADING UP THE INSIDE PASSAGE?

HEADING UP THE INSIDE PASSAGE?

by Michael Kampnich

Considering your first trip to Southeast Alaska by boat? Or maybe you're a seasoned veteran of the Inside Passage looking to get a bit off the beaten track? Are you wondering where the cruise ships AREN'T? Then, you may want to take a look at Craig and the west coast of Prince of Wales Island, the third largest island in the United States.

Craig is the largest community on P.O.W. and the economic center of the island. There are about 2100 people who call Craig "home". It is home port and service center to a large commercial fishing fleet of local and transient vessels. Recreational boating is a popular summer activity for the locals. Craig, and the west coast area of POW Island, also have much to offer anyone visiting the area by motor yacht or sailboat. The west coast of Prince of Wales is a boating visitor's paradise. With hundreds of smaller islands scattered along the western shore, opportunities for cruising and exploring the many bays and passages are almost unlimited. Marine wildlife is abundant and viewing opportunities abound. Sea Otter Sound and the Maurelle Islands have permanent populations of sea otters numbering in the hundreds. Sea Lions are abundant and regularly seen near Timbered island and Cape Addington. There is a large resident population of humpback whales throughout the islands and seasonally gray, sperm and killer whales may be seen. The gray and sperm whales are generally found off the coast of the outer islands. Killer whales may be seen anywhere and are usually sighted at least a couple times a year along the waterfront in Craig. Fishing is great, as can be expected. Kings and cohos are plentiful in season and halibut and lingcod can be found all summer long. For those wanting a little extra help finding the fish, there are a number of local charter guides, with boats, available by the day or longer. Sitka Blacktail deer and black bear are regularly seen along the shores of the islands and an occasional wolf may be spotted or a pack heard howling while anchored in a secluded bay. If you want to tie up and take a break, Craig has three harbors with over 200 slips that can be hot berthed, along with designated transient moorage. All services are available. Vessels up to 150' can be accommodated with advance notice. On the floats you'll find a friendly, accommodating harbor staff. Water is available with moorage. For those who would like power, 110 V and 220 V are accessible. A used oil dump is located at the head of the approach to North Cove Harbor and garbage facilities are located at all harbors. The Craig Harbor Department is staffed seven days a week, year round, and monitors VHF 16 for all harbormaster calls. The harbor department works on VHF 18 primarily and other channels as needed. Restroom and shower facilities are available at the harbormasters's office at the head of the approaches to North and South Cove. Shore side services include a laundromat, marine hardware stores, outboard and marine repair facilities, grocery stores, a post office, a library with internet service for the public, a medical clinic, two dental offices, two banks and an ATM, clothing stores, a dive shop, sport fish processing facilities and many other stores and shops all located within a 10 minute walk of the harbors. Petro Marine Services has a modern fuel facility just north of North Cove Harbor. There are a number of churches in Craig and nearby in Klawock. The City of Craig has a swimming pool along with a hot tub, sauna and a fitness center that is open from early morning to late evening seven days a week.

Prince of Wales Island is home to a number of smaller communities. These will provide an opportunity to sample some of the different life styles of the area. Thorne Bay, Coffman Cove and Whale Pass, all on the east side of the island, and Naukati, on the west side of the island, were established as logging communities. All are now transforming from a completely timber-dependent economy to a more rounded economic base. These communities are all connected by road. Kasaan, on the east side of the island, and Klawock and Hydaburg on the west side of the island and all connected by road. These native communites offer the opportunity to experience some of the local native culture. All three communities have totem parks that are within a short walk from their harbors. Klawock has a recently completed long house that will be open in the summer. Point Baker and Port Protection, which are on the very north end of the island, and Edna Bay on Heceta Island on the west side of POW, are all small communities whose residents are mostly commercial fishermen. These three communities can only be reached by air or water. All of these settlements have some moorage available but few, if any, have on-duty harbormasters. Fuel, groceries and cafes are available in most of these places.

If you would like to explore the 2000 plus miles of road on the island, there are two vehicle rental services in Craig. The native communities of Klawock (the Tlingit Tribe) and Hydaburg and Kasaan (the Haida Tribes) each have totem parks for interested visitors. Two new totems have been carved by local resident, Stan Marsden. One was raised in the Hydaburg totem park and the other, the Healing Heart Totem Pole, was raised here in Craig. Over the past 15 years a significant number of caves have been discovered in the northwestern area of the island. The Forest Service has daily tours during the summer of one of the most accessible caves, El Capitan. Or maybe you would like to do a little freshwater fishing for trout in one of the hundreds of lakes and streams accessible from the road system. Fishing gear, canoes, and other necessities can be rented by the day or week in Craig. If you'd like to do some hiking, there are a number of trails maintained by the Forest Service or the island communities that range from short and easy to rugged and steep, reaching the high country on the island. As do many of the communities on the island, Craig has a number of 4th of July festivities and fireworks held the evening of the 3rd.

So stop in and see us. We'll meet you on the floats, catch a line and give you a hand tying up. If you'd like more information give us a call at 907-826-3404 or send us an email at Email

Editor's note: For more information, see Chapter 20 in the printed or on-line e-Guide versions of Northwest Boat Travel Guide. Websites of interest are: www.nwboat.com/cruiselinks/alaska and those of McFarland's Floatel in Thorne Bay www.mcfarlandsfloatel.com and Point Baker Trading Post, Ruffie's Bed and Breakfast at Point Baker www.pointbakeralaska.com