Last summer presented a new kind of cruise. Instead of our usual race up the coast in a mad scramble to "get north," family affairs kept us closer to home. Though we both enjoy the endless exploring opportunites of waterways farther afield, the prospect of a slow, easy cruise through the Gulf Islands soon beckoned with colors just as bright. We fell to planning. And planning for us, spins just as fast around our culinary pleasure as it does around discovering the perfect anchorage, hooking the most elusive fish, even sighting the nearest Orca pod. Few cruising grounds on earth can rival the variety of high- quality eateries in such top notch, memorable settings as those in and around the Gulf Islands. Where generally we stock the bilges and lockers with quantities of good things, with special thought to seafood preparation, this year we perused the charts and set a course to hit high spots of gastronomic delight. Of course, the old stand-bys made the list immediately but we wanted to leave room for flexibility.

So we cast off our lines with a considerably higher waterline and headed out of the Sound on the ebbing tide. It's our ritual to celebrate with a really good steak or thick, juicy lamb chops the first night out. And good thing, too, since we arrived in Fisherman Bay, Lopez, too late to buy dinner. But morning brought a hike into town for coffee, rich cheese scones and berry/rhubarb coffee cake at the busy local bakery, which appears to be the gathering spot for locals and tourists alike.

A walk around the small village, flanked by golden fields and sweeping views toward the bay served to whet our appetites once more. A riot of amber sunflowers and scarlet nasturtiums drew us toward Vita's deli, a wonderland of innovative culinary delights. Arms loaded, we emerged with barbequed pork and coleslaw sandwiches, crab and artichoke timbales, and skewered shrimp with aioli remoulade.

Picnicking on deck we set our course for Shallow Bay on Sucia and a quiet night on the hook. This put us in prime position for a morning run to Vancouver's English Bay and a chief target for our trip. Whenever we head north, we try to include a stop at Granville Market to top off our ship's stores. Just under the Granville Bridge in False Creek, this wondrous maze of nooks and crannies offers everything edible imaginable, from just- picked fruits and vegetables, to fresh butcher cuts and prepared ready-to-cook meats and seafoods, ethnic oddities, handmade chocolates, soups and homemade stocks, and local and imported cheeses. Restaurants, bakeries and take-out shops vie for space with flower stalls and handcrafts in a happy jumble that will make you want to stay all day. Which brings to mind another perk: there's free moorage at the market, though it's limited to a couple hours.

When we're through shopping, we like to run further into False Creek and nab a mooring bouy. Downtown Vancouver is rife with great and/or trendy eateries. We love the original Umbertos and like to try upstart options in close-by Yaletown. But this trip we chose to feast on grilled bacon-wrapped scallops and fresh asparagus on deck as the darkening sky accentuated the sparkly nighttime cityscape.

Morning brought a lovely breeze which pushed us up the Strait as far as Nanaimo. Newcastle Island offers good hiking, wonderful views over the Strait and city as well as great boatwatching. We chose to throw out the anchor and rest a couple days, soaking up the sunshine and devouring our Granville Island purchases. Since the market temptations had been powerful, we missed dinner at Chantilly's, a new eatery which has recently taken over our favorite Japanese restaurant called The Grotto. But we did make a ritual voyage to the Dingy Dock, more out of tradition than hunger.

Heading south again through Dodd Narrows, we steered for Ladysmith Harbour to try the Page Point Inn, which we have known as Manana Lodge since our honeymoon many cruises ago. We were happily surprised to find the old lodge reviving in caring and capable hands. Delectable entrees included an unusual mixed grill of lamb, prawns and venison, with three appropriate sauces and served up with a wondrous risotto.

What would a gulf island cruise be without a stop at Thetis Island Marina in Telegraph Harbour? Though the food is ordinary pub food, except for an interesting lamb burger, the owner's fine collection of single malt scotches merits closer inspection. There's usually a happy bunch of boaters making merry on the docks and grounds and hikers are rewarded with lovely pastoral scenery.

Grapevine Cafe, Genoa Bay

From Thetis, it was a toss up whether to head for Ganges or to slide down through Sansum Narrows to Genoa Bay. After all, the gourmet cuisine at Hastings House, a Relais et Chateau property, in Ganges called strongly, echoed by the popular House Piccolo or even the excellent pub food at Moby Dicks. But Genoa won, primarily because we'd not tried the tidy little restaurant there called the Grapevine. We weren't disappointed, reveling in a delicate coconut flavored cream-based seafood creation called a Flemish Waterzooie and cilantro-spiked swordfish.

Blistering heat and still water accompanied us down Saanich Inlet. Winding into Tod Inlet, we threw out the hook after a stop at the well-stocked Thrifty Foods, a short walk up the hill from the marina at Mill Bay. The next midday led us to discover the tiny Seahorse Cafe hard by the ferry landing in Brentwood Bay where we indulged in a house-smoked chicken salad on foccacia and shrimp with spinach and curried aioli on a croissant.

Again, we had to make a difficult choice between a stop at Sidney to visit Dock 503 restaurant in Tsehum Harbour and continuing on to Victoria. Since our time was running short we opted for the latter. A long-time favorite, Pagliacci's at 1011 Broad Street, serves up satisfying salads and an endless selection of interesting pastas. Feasting there, we felt lucky to catch the live jazz that night as well.

Tight belts hampered our stroll back to the boat st Rithet Basin. Groaning, we vowed that next year we'd crash through the Gulf Islands to assume the more rigorous lifestyle and less taste-tempting territory further north. But we didn't regret one bite.

Seahorse Cafe, Brentwood Bay

Copyright, Lynn Mortensen, February 14, 2003