There were head phones for all four in the cockpit, enabling us to carry on a conversation over the roar of the engine. Doug would tell us when he needed the radio to communicate with the airports at Anacortes, Eastsound, Roche Harbor and Friday Harbor.
From my seat on the right side, I looked north over the farmland of Skagit County, to Samish Island, to mountainous Lummi Island, the city of Bellingham, and beautiful Mount Baker. As the sun reflected on the water below, the patterns of color and shadow delineated the reefs and grasses on the bottom, and the ever changing blues of the various depths formed a continuous tapestry of shapes and hues.
After watching the shadow of the plane moving below us as we crossed the shallow waters of Skagit Bay, the city of Anacortes came into view. The landmark refineries were active on March Point, and the narrow waterway of the Swinomish Channel was streaked with white wakes from boat traffic heading to and from the town of La Conner.
Anacortes, located on Fidalgo Island, is often considered the Boating Capital of the Northwest and the Gateway to the San Juan Islands. Marinas offer permanent and transient moorage and the city itself is well equipped with specialty shops, groceries, marine supplies, restaurants, and lodging accommodations. It is from Anacortes that ferries sail to and from the San Juan Islands, and after cruising through the islands, the International Ferry run connects with Sidney, British Columbia, only 16 miles north of the capital city of Victoria.
Islands in the Anacortes vicinity, and those scattered along the coast from Anacortes north to Bellingham, are located in either Skagit or Whatcom Counties and are designated, as they are in Northwest Boat Travel Guide, as The Gateway Islands. These include Cypress, Guemes, Saddlebag, Lummi, Vendovi, Eliza, Burrows, and Allan.
To the west, on the other side of Rosario Strait, you enter San Juan County, home to the San Juan Archipelago. When first surveyed in 1874, as many as 750 reefs, islets and rocks were seen at a minus tide. Today, 457 is a more accepted number, or even 175 if only those of significant size are counted. The waterways of the San Juan Islands embrace the passages and bays north of the east end of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and are bounded on the west by Haro Strait and on the north by Boundary Pass. This locale is often referred to as Washington Sound. The International Boundary line, which separates Canada from the United States, runs through Boundary Pass and down Haro Strait.
Sometimes called The Magic Islands, the San Juans do seem to have a mystical power that lures thousands of visitors each year from all over the world. Many have chosen to become permanent residents and this number has grown significantly during the last 20 years. In truth, these islands have everything that a water lover could want. There are quiet bays with splendid and dependable anchorages, marine parks offering campsites, buoys and moorage floats, a selection of marina and resort facilities, favored salmon and shrimping spots, and friendly towns where tourists are welcome.
The passages are used extensively by pleasure craft, especially during the months of May, June, July, August, and September. Automobile ferries make regular round trip runs and an inter-island ferry connects the major islands. Ferry landings are located on Lopez, Shaw, Orcas, and San Juan Islands. There are many marine facilities, resorts, and hundreds of anchorages. Air strips are found on several islands, operated either by port districts or private individuals.
For bird watchers, more than 80 of the islands, rocks, reefs, and islets have been removed from private ownership to form a wildlife preserve. Those who might wish to identify or count the tufted puffins, cormorants, gulls, and eagles can do so at their heart's content. Except for Alaska, the San Juan Islands have the largest concentration of Bald Eagles. In summer Golden Eagles join to keep them company. There are also harbor seals, porpoises and resident pods of Orca whales.
Our flight plan took us on a path north of Orcas, the largest island. Shaped like a saddlebag, with the inlet of East Sound nearly splitting it in two, Orcas has been known as the resort island. The town of Eastsound, at the head of the indentation, is the largest community. It is located near Moran State Park, and from the park's observation tower on Mount Constitution, there is a panoramic view of the islands. Also on Orcas's southern shore are the indentations of West Sound and Deer Harbor. Marinas and resorts can be found here as well as at several locations on the east, north, and west coasts of the island.
I found myself clicking the camera nearly non-stop as we flew over Clark and Barnes Islands toward Matia Island and the complex of 11 islands known as Sucia Island Marine State Park. A lone sailboat swung on a buoy at Clark Island Marine State Park and tent campsites were evident among the scrub trees which rim the white beach. Primarily composed of sandstone, the cliffs and stark beaches of these islands are even more outstanding when seen from the air.
When we reached Sucia, Doug banked the plane like a gliding bird to make a wide circle over Fossil, 
Shallow, and Echo Bays. 
The great number of boats found in the harbors attested to the popularity of these ports-of-call. The acquisition of these islands as a park was begun in 1952 and completed in 1974. Hundreds of yacht clubs and individual boating families contributed to the project. The park is administered by Washington State Parks with fees charged for moorage, buoys, and campsites. The name, Sucia, is another example of the influence of Spanish explorers as they named their discoveries. Originally, on the 1790 map of Captain Eliza, he had designated the island as Isla Sucia, meaning, in the nautical sense, foul island. Evidently, the name was chosen because the shore appeared unclean and reef strewn. Through the years, Sucia's eroded sandstone shores have served as hiding places for both rum runners and importers of Chinese laborers.
Continuing west, we flew along the southern shore of Waldron Island. This large, relatively flat island has lovely beaches. Known for a reputation of isolation, many of its residents have made it clear that they could care less about roads, infrastructure, or communication with others. Seclusion is the life style on Waldron.
The sky was hazy to the west and to Stuart Island, home to two other popular marine state parks. From our long distance, both Reid and Prevost Harbors appeared to be filled with objects resembling white blocks on a sea of blue.
Below us was Spieden Island,
to me one of the most unusual. The south side is nearly barren with a cover of long grass blowing lazily in the wind. On the contrary, the north side is nearly covered with timber, from the ridge that forms the backbone of the island, down to the shoreline. Currents and tide rips which form in the passages among these island masses are particularly evident as you pass Green Point near Spieden Channel and San Juan Channel. Spieden, was known as Safari Island in the 1970's when an entrepreneur stocked the island with exotic birds and wildlife, then opened a resort where hunters could come and stalk their prey. After a growing controversy, this was discontinued and today some animals, not native to the area, can still be seen grazing on the steep bank or romping through the trees. The island is still private and several homes are found.
Following Speiden Channel, we were along the northern shore of San Juan Island. Our itinerary included flying west to Henry Island and then turning east to check-out Roche Harbor and its newly expanded marina resort. We had planned to land at the strip and walk to the new moorage floats. Therefore, we were at a very low altitude as we flew over the complex. Because time was growing short, a change of plans was decided and we pulled up and continued the flight. I was able to get good close-ups of the Our Lady of Good Voyage Chapel, the original docks, the restaurant building and Hotel De Haro, where I had worked in the late 1950's. Today, the historic buildings remain and new moorage floats cover the area of the bay which, in recent years, had been the site of many resort-owned mooring buoys.
Mosquito Pass, on San Juan Island's west side, was visible in the distance, and several white objects were moving through the curved channel toward possible destinations of Garrison Bay, Westcott Bay, Mitchell Bay, or across Haro Strait to British Columbia's capital city of Victoria, on Vancouver Island. Westcott Bay was peaceful and a deep blue as we passed. Through the years, it has become well known as a site for oyster and clam cultivation. Famous for being served in fine restaurants nationwide, I understand that the fresh shellfish is also sold in a retail store on the road near the bay. All of the shoreline is private.
Traveling southeast over San Juan Island, with Mount Rainier showing plainly in the far distance, the farmlands of the central valley resembled a patchwork quilt, with holes torn in it where numerous small lakes were scattered below. We made a deep turn and approached the town of Friday Harbor, 
the largest island community, the San Juan County Seat, and the commercial hub of the islands. You couldn't quite walk across the harbor on boats from Brown Island to downtown Friday Harbor, but the number at anchor and the overflow of boats at the Port of Friday Harbor marina made it a very crowded destination. This was the week of the renown San Juan Island Jazz Festival, which, for the past 18 years has attracted boaters and tourists from throughout the northwest. I remember back to the year the festival was founded and the San Juan Island Jazz Association bought an ad in Northwest Boat Travel to announce the event. Today the celebration lasts four days and includes a street dance, a promenade parade down Spring, the main street of town, a pianorama containing six hours of non-stop piano artistry, an open mike stage and arts fair, a children's concert, jazz gospel singing, and jazz bands from around the country. In addition to groups from the northwest, featured in recent years have been Bob Crosby's Bob Cats from New Jersey, Queen City Jazz Band from Denver, the Blue Street Jazz Band from Fresno, CA, and the Gateway City Seven from St. Louis, MO. In addition to pleasure boats, fans were arriving by high speed catamaran from Seattle or Victoria, small cruise ships from Bellingham, land planes from Anacortes and SeaTac Airport, and ferry from Anacortes or Sidney. A network of seaplanes was criss-crossing below us as they landed in the channel along the waterfront. If you would like more information on this year's festival, call 360-378-5509.
After passing Friday Harbor, Doug did me a favor and flew south along the north shore of Griffin Bay. This is where we had property and had anchored our boat during my teenage years. First we lived in a navy surplus tent, to be followed by a one room cabin with no power or water. Today lovely homes are scattered throughout the site. Hindsight is indeed better that foresight. The property, rimming a quarter mile of waterfront cost $5,000 in 1952. In 1962, when all except a small parcel was sold to some University of Washington Marine Lab professors, the price was $27,000. I wonder what it is worth today.
Turning out over Griffin Bay, Cattle Point and the site of San Juan National Historical Monument came into view. Designated as park lands in 1966, two sites on the island tell the tales of the 1860 Pig War between England and the United States. The American encampment was near Cattle Point, and the British built their fort at Garrison Bay on the northwest side of the island. Wind and weather destroyed the buildings at the southern encampment, but there is an historical trail at American Camp with 22 points of interest. Fortunately, the barracks, blockhouse, and commissary remain at British Camp and are open to visitors. The Pig War began when an American settler shot a British neighbor's pig. No human casualties occurred during the 12 year "war" and at its conclusion, Kaiser Wilhelm 1 of Germany settled the boundary dispute and marked the boundary line as it is today.
Crossing San Juan Channel we flew over Flat Point, Upright Channel and looked south into the heart of Lopez Island's Fisherman Bay. The small town of Lopez and the two marine facilities were the only points of obvious activity along the otherwise pastoral lands of central Lopez Island. This is the island where bicyclists and pedestrians will find themselves returning the friendly waves of greetings from island residents. It is also the island where, because it lies in the shadow of the Olympic Rain Shadow, cactus can be found flourishing on the islands southern shore.
The last major island, Shaw, is located near the central portion of the group, and was to the left of the plane. This is the spot known for the small marina and store that is adjacent to the ferry landing and is operated by nuns, the lovely San Juan County Park, good anchorages, and old time residential families.
Soon we were crossing over Decatur Island, with its private developments, and James Island, a popular Marine State Park. All but one buoy in the two bays at James were empty, just waiting for the next boat to approach and grab its ring. Winds had risen on Rosario Strait and peaks of foam topped the steady flow of rolling waves. Once again over Fidalgo Island, the large residential development and the metal roofs of the covered moorage at Skyline were shining up at us. We again crossed over Anacortes and were on the final leg of the trip heading to Bayview. Another small plane was below us as we followed in line to prepare for landing. After a very smooth touch-down and extending to Doug our congratulations and our thanks for their thoughtfulness, we rolled the plane back into its housing, eager to stretch out at home and recall the memories of a very memorable flight.