Sun, Sand and Surf - Discover BC’s array of Camping Gems

by Jack Christie

Camping is the easiest form of recreation. Think about it. Head to any of British Columbia’s 180 provincial campgrounds and simply settle in. How hard is that? Not very, as long as you’ve brought along the right equipment.

Some vacationers enjoy camping as a way to simplify their lives, at least for a night or two. Others wouldn’t consider spending time under the stars unless there are hot showers and flush toilets nearby. That’s quite a range of tastes. Which means before you set out, do your homework. Perhaps make a reservation with In summer, provincial campgrounds near urban areas fill up with predictable regularity. Families return summer after summer to reconnect with the lazy experience of relaxing just beyond their backyards. Parks with full amenities pamper those new to exploring the outdoors, or who perhaps feel uneasy about heading off the beaten path. When you’re ready to commit to longer trips, you’ll discover rewards you never imagined. And whether you walk, paddle, fish, cycle, swim, windsurf, or skimboard, a treasury of activities awaits at many campgrounds.

One such gem is Kettle River Park in the Boundary region of the Thompson Okanagan, just north of Rock Creek on Highway 33. This is one of the best jumping-off points for discovering the entire Kettle Valley, through which the clear river winds. Certainly, the primary joy of camping at one of this park’s 87 generously-spaced sites is the nearby Kettle River. Another is the abundance of wildlife, such as great gray owls who swoop through the forest at sunset before silently arching off towards the river.

Take your picnic basket and inner tube down to the riverbank, spread out the blanket, then hop in. An iron bridge spans the river here, a relic of the historic Kettle Valley Railway whose route linking the Interior with the coast now serves as a trail for walkers and cyclists.

Farther east in the Kootenay Rockies region’s Columbia Valley lies Whiteswan Lake Park. The pay-off for driving the well-maintained gravel Whiteswan Forest Road is a choice of approximately 100 campsites, including a few walk-in sites for those who arrive by bicycle or who simply want to get away from the crowds. Not that there are any. Tucked into the folds of the Rocky Mountains’ western slope, 18 kilometres east of Highway 93/95 near Canal Flats, an atmosphere of rarified calm abides here. Chalk that up to the majestic peaks that thrust skyward on all sides.

Upon arrival at Whiteswan, check out the park’s five separate campgrounds before deciding where to settle in. There’s one to suit every taste. Fly fishers will be drawn to Alces Lake which is set aside exclusively for this graceful sport, as will those simply in search of a quiet, sunny location to relax. Motorboats are restricted to larger Whiteswan Lake nearby. The prospect of landing a feisty rainbow trout is the bait that lures many campers here. So too is the quiet joy of walking the pioneer North Shore Trail, that traces the shorelines of both lakes.

No matter what season you visit Whiteswan - two of its campgrounds are open year-round (when accessible; campers must be self-sufficient) - allow several hours for a soak in the Lussier hot springs near the park entrance. Early morning is one of the best times to visit the springs before they get crowded, especially on weekends.

On days when the wind blowing off the snow-capped Cariboo Mountains kicks up whitecaps in Northern British Columbia’s Paarens Beach Park, you’ll wish there were hot springs there as well. Not that Stuart Lake, on whose golden shores sit the park’s 36 campsites, doesn’t warm up in summer. Sun and sand are the reasons windsurfers, skimboarders, and those looking to spike and shag a volleyball head to Paarens Beach. Mountain bike routes at nearby Whitefish Bay and along Teardrop Road are strong drawing cards for campers who journey 150 kilometres northwest of Prince George as well.

Should you wish to explore, one of the best-preserved historic sites in BC lies just east of the park in Fort St. James. Making your way through the fort inside and out is a "must see" experience. This is also the original home of floatplane operations in the north. A constant buzz emanates from this corner of the lake as anglers head off to remote fishing camps. Not that you have to go any farther than Paarens Beach, where many campers crown their vacation with a gourmet dinner of rainbow trout or char fresh out of the lake.

On Vancouver Island, surf thumps the coastline west of Sooke with the explosive force of a waterfall. One of the best places to capture this spectacle - and be captivated by it in turn - is at the China Beach and Mystic Beach campgrounds in Juan de Fuca Park, where the low staccato of pebbles caught in the undertow mimics the effervescent spritz of champagne bubbles. Not only will the vastness of the open ocean win your heart, so too will the sensuous gurgling of the swells as they rise and fall in crevasses along the beaches where multi-legged starfish cling in shades of purple, crimson and orange.

For the full one-on-one effect of romancing the elements, nothing compares with overnighting at China Beach. It lies at the southern end of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, a 48-kilometre test of hiking mettle. One of the most scenic parts of the route leads two kilometres between China and Mystic beaches along a series of boardwalks and across the Loss Creek suspension bridge. While the majority of campers in this region head to French Beach Provincial Park near Sooke, those that travel farther north along Highway 14 to China Beach will find plenty of space and cozy yurts for rent as well (these dome-shaped, sturdy structures were originated by herdsmen in central Asia). Those looking for a more secluded experience will find camping at Mystic Beach more than worth the effort of hiking in the extra distance.

For more on British Columbia’s destinations and travel information, call 1-800 HELLO BC (North America), visit www.HelloBC.com or www.discovercamping.ca.

Jack Christie is a freelance writer who resides in Vancouver, BC.